Surviving Rainbow Valley

     So I took two friend camping in Rainbow Valley this weekend. We left about noon and headed south on the Stuart Highway about 78kms before turning off on a 4WD track for 22kms. The track was not a difficult one, just really rippled, so bumpy with a few sandy patches, however nothing like the Palm Valley track where we got bogged. When we arrived there was no one at the campground, and then another few cars came and went while we set up camp. T'was rather windy as we did this, and we picked a site ended up having a lot of rock, so pegs didn't go in easily. I wanted to try out my new shade tent, which turned out to be HUGE and with the billowing wind, it was a bit tricky but we managed to get it secured after collapsing on us a few times first. Big tip - slender steel pegs do not hold well in sandy desert...but trees do.
     Once set up we were off for a hike to Mushroom Rock. We walked over the dried out clay pans to explore a bit before heading to the rock. It was a very interesting rock, all honeycombed from certain kinds of rock being leached out of the sandstone rock. We didn't see much wildlife but did see a very large snake track through the sand...luckily did not see the snake. The flies were merciless, not biters, just damned annoying as they flocked to warm bodies. We wanted to walk a bit farther as the hike was pretty short, however there were no marked trails, and with snakes in the bush, not to mention venomous spiders, and I was in shorts, K. barefoot in small sneakers, so we opted to go back to the campsite and drink some beer.

     Several cars came and went, snapped their photos, did the short hike, but no one set up camp. By the time dusk arrived, it was looking like no one else would be camping in the remote campsite but us! We went in search of the gas barbecues and found a pretty crappy one nearby, but then went for a look on the other side of the kitchen shelter and found a brand new flash barbecue and a wayyyy better campsite, so we made the executive decision to move on over. Just as we set up the last of it, a car pulled in right next to us and 4 people go out and set up for supper. They didn't use the barbecue, thankfully, so we started our own supper, needing to get it all cooked before the sun set.

     We were treated to an amazing sunset with a fireball of a sun, just stunning. The clouds covered most of the sky though so we didn't get that bright blue sky to contrast with the rocks, so I was a little disappointed as we came out to Rainbow Valley to see the sunset on the mountains, however the sunset   we did get in the opposite sky made up for it. Once supper was done, we lit the fire straight away as it would be the ONLY light in sight and with an overcast sky and no moon this week, it was bloody DARK! We managed to keep a good fire burning all night but trips to the bathroom were rather spooky and at one point K. flashed her torch (flashlight) down at the ground and we saw a huge spider walking about...that was enough for me, I was spooked! I tried to sit up after the others went to bed and read by the fire, but the thought of that big spider or others climbing up my leg creeped me out. The others were worried about strangers coming and murdering them in their tent while I was truly concerned with that damn spider. I flashed my light down at the ground after they went to bed and the damn spider was about 2 feet from me...alright, we're OFF to bed!
     The next morning we got up early, cooked a good breakfast scoff, packed up the car and went out to the claypan for another hike, this time straight across it (despite the signs telling us not to but we were incensed with wanting to explore it!) and we each wandered about, snapping tons more photos. F. stayed on the clay pan for her photos while K. and I wandered up over the hill to a rock standing alone and checked it out. The ground had been burnt there, and there was a fence to climb over, but we continued to be oh so naughty and kept going. The rock had so many contours and fallen rock was so very interestingly shaped, we snapped and snapped our photos before returning back to the campsite. While we were gone, F. was able to watch some kangaroos feeding not far from where we had jumped the fence. Lucky gal! I haven't seen any feeding in the wild, just in the parks.

snake track!

just a little lizard

our second and final campsite

claypan feet

fire burned the tree but then flowers busted up through

rock balls

     So we had a great time, more bug bites of course, lots of photos, and one spooky night to tell about.  Can't wait to go camping again.

Going Out Bush

     Ah, going out bush. In Australia it refers to leaving town to explore the outback. I thought they might call it going outback, but it's called going out bush. I haven't been out bush since driving to Nyrripi and Yuendumu, but that wasn't an overnighter. This weekend I'm taking a couple of my mates (yeah, I'm getting the lingo) with me to Rainbow Valley, which is about 100kms south of Alice Springs. About 78kms south on the Stuart Highway, and then about 22-24kms on bushroad, 4WD. Shouldn't be near as rough as Palm Valley, but we'll be prepared either way. I have a new shade tent I want to try out and with the higher temperatures and the reported lack of shade at Rainbow Valley campground, it's the perfect time. I'm quite certain we'll need shade this summer (Christmas) when Amber comes and it's 40C and hotter during the day. Great thing about the desert heat is the shade is at least 10-15C cooler than the exposed, and then at night, cools off nicely for sleeping.
     There is something to be said for spending time out bush. Alice Springs isn't a big town by any means, but is sure is nice to escape it once in awhile and hear nothing but mother nature talking to you. No road trains roaring by, no screaming and yelling by the locals (their frequent way of communicating), no bushfire smoke (checked the fire website) and hardly any people. Of course, it will be the first weekend of school holidays for some of the schools here, but I reckon they are not all going to be headed to Rainbow Valley when there are so many places to go from here. I'm looking forward to just exploring the hiking trails, taking hundreds of photos with my Rebel, and relaxing in my camp chair later with some cold beers while we fire up the grill for supper as the sun sets in the valley. Ahhh....can't friggin wait.
     There's been so many weekends lately where I couldn't get out of town, or it just didn't line up for me. I had considered going camping alone last weekend but then I was smothered in such a rotten cold, I had no energy to even consider packing the Rav to go. Now that the cold is waning, and I've got my energy back, it's time to rock and roll and get out there! So my mates K. and F. are packing up with me and we shall head out about noon on our weekend adventure into the outback of Central Australia. Our last trip together was to King's Canyon in the early winter/late fall. (Australia seasons)
     I look forward to meeting new folks, other people enjoying their time out bush, and sharing stories. There was a communal campfire at Palm Valley that was quite interesting. Campgrounds in this neck of the woods are very different from Canadian and American campgrounds. There are not always allotted numbered spaces, most sites are without a picnic table, and there is rarely a firepit at your site. There are communal gas barbecues (which I call grills as there is no open flame or rack), and most of the 4WD sites do not have power or water at the sites. Fine with me - means no loud and obnoxious RV's thundering through. Generators are usually prohibited - too damned noisy - yayyy. Surprisingly they often have terrific bathrooms with hot showers, although Rainbow Valley is pretty basic with pit toilets, but I'm okay with that. As long as I don't have to hover over the snakes and spiders in the brush, I'm happy.
     There is just something to be said for waking up at 6am in the wild, watching the sun come up in the stillness of the morning, birds just coming to life, ready for the day.

Life is good, really good.

Murder in Alice Springs

 I certainly don't want to add to the hysteria around crime rates in Alice Springs, but last night someone was murdered here in Alice Springs, just down the street from me in the riverbed. No word on how it happened, or who it was yet, but those details will become known with time. Sad really, but I have to say, not totally unexpected. This dry riverbed is so busy day and night with people drinking, hanging out, camping out overnight, some folks seem to even live there. Drinking is banned from the riverbed but it clearly does not stop them.

at sunset, I could still see the forensics team there

     I cross this riverbed just to the left of this photo every day on my way to work, and often on the way home from the pub at night. There are ALWAYS tons of VB cans (cheapo beer and a local favorite) and dozens of wine cask boxes, the 2litre size they supposedly banned. It's quite common to see folks sitting around in the daytime in a circle, sometimes around a small campfire. I had become used to the sight, and didn't think much of it. No one ever bothered me, so I didn't bother them. The Henley-on-Todd Regatta that I wrote about just a few weeks back was held right in the very spot they are now processing as a crime scene. On Thursdays it has been known by many locals as mother-fucker Thursdays because it gets a little crazy down there. I haven't noticed that. It can be noisy any given night, with lots of yelling. That is how most of the indigenous people communicate - with the volume UP. I have learned to tune it out and not think about it a whole lot. Now I will. Now I don't know if I will walk home alone at night again, not over this riverbed. Taxi!
     No word on who this woman was, local or tourist, white or indigenous...may she rest in peace.

Aussie Life

     I went to the night market tonight - it was bustling with locals and visitors. Not as many stalls as I would have thought, think there are more at the Sunday market. What I did enjoy was the drumming group thundering their sound for us all to enjoy. The market is held on Todd Mall, which is about a 15 minute walk from my house, which is awesome. I really enjoy how close I am to downtown. Far enough away that I don't hear it from my house but close enough to walk anytime I want. I bought a hand dyed silk scarf, some homemade eucalyptus soap, a smudge bundle/stick from Hidden Valley (one of the town camps) and a homemade cinnamon donut, fresh from the cooker.
     The walk home was pleasant enough, the sounds of the market fading away in the background, the beautiful night sky overhead, temperatures about 20C with the heat of the day fading slowly, the scent of jasmine in the air, the sound of huge bush cockroaches crunching underfoot...saw a few campfires in the riverbed on the way, small groups of Aboriginals squatting around the fire. That's one think I must say I enjoy seeing - the Aboriginals certainly know how to "hang out". Day or night, there are groups large and small sitting outside, usually in the shade of a tree or building, often in a circle. Socializing with others be it family or friends is very important to these folks. In the daytime, it is often the men in a group of their own, and the women in children in another group not far away. Often there is someone doing some painting - usually the dot painting. Alice Springs overflows with dot painting, both in the many galleries and just laid out on the grass around them for private sales.
     The night sky is pretty amazing here. A few nights ago we had a harvest moon - large golden orange ball of fire crept up over the horizon and through the bushfire smoke that was hanging over the edge of town. I can see the Southern Cross on any given night. There are many constellations I can't see in Canada that are easily found here in Australia. They don't call the big dipper the same as we do - they call it the saucepan. With such a big open sky and little to interrupt the horizon, you can just see so much of the night sky at once. I've seen a few shooting stars which are always a great surprise.
     Footy and rugby are big here, bigger than hockey and baseball put together it seems. Everyone gets in on the action, and the World Cup Rugby is coming up so there's a fair bit of excitement in the air. Footy is Australian Rules Football, very different from American football, and a whole lot less padding for either game which makes for some real nice looking men with great bodies - I'm certain that's why the women are so very interested in footy and rugby! I haven't quite worked out what the difference is, but don't really care - I'll watch good looking athletic men just like the next gal.
     For anyone who has ever traveled through Alberta and noticed how many pick-up trucks there are - at least half the population seems to own one - well there are even more people in central Australia that drive a 4-wheel drive. There are tons of Land Rovers, Toyota Land Cruisers, Jeeps, Toyota Hilux (a pick-up truck aka ute) and countless 4wd campers. Common sights in Alice Springs are any of the above with swags on the roof rack along with water containers and extra gas cans aka petrol cans. Camping is HUGE in central Australia and I can't wait to get back out there myself. I'm thinking of going for the night on Saturday to Rainbow Valley. I haven't had any volunteers to go camping with me as my friends are all into the footy and rugby, but I'm keen to go so will likely head out alone for the night. Rainbow Valley is supposed to be quite pretty at sunset and sunrise, so the only way to do that is camp overnight or drive in the dark, which is not recommended in this neck of the woods. I used to be afraid to camp alone, but after traveling so much last year I've conquered that fear and rather enjoy it. If I want to be social, there is usually someone else at the campground to chat with - Aussies are great conversationalists and quite friendly, at least in central Australia they are.
     So life is ticking right along here for me. It has been such a good move to come here and I've not been homesick for Canada much at all, particularly now that fall is moving in and winter is not far behind for my friends back home. We're in early spring here with hot days and cool nights but heading to even hotter days with 37C forecast for Monday. Good thing my air con has been serviced recently - I might need it!
   
   
   

Harvest Moon from Anzac Hill

My friend F. was all jazzed about the harvest moon rising tonight so I met up with her and our friend K. and headed up to the top of Anzac Hill and what a gorgeous moon it was, along with a spectacular sunset. We may have missed the sun dropping behind the horizon but the colors it left behind were pretty amazing. There weren't many people up for the moon as most had come for the sunset and left as we arrived. F. called everyone she knew to make sure they poked their heads out the door to take a look at this harvest moon, when it was closest to the earth. Thank you F!